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Night bus from Amritsar to Jammu arrived in Jammu at 4.30 in the morning. It was pitch black. The driver of the private bus told me it was the Jammu bus station but I doubt it was.
Rather, it seemed like I had been dropped from the bus to some wasteland over which a massive concrete bridge streched....

Staying in a houseboat is one of the main attractions of the Kashmiri town Srinagar. The houseboat are like little villas on the Dal lake. They come in all classes from deluxe to D class (D is an official class) so everyone can find a houseboat to suit...

1. Upon arriving take your time to find the perfect houseboat to stay. As you probably are arriving late from either Leh or Jammu, spend the first evening just chilling on the front deck of the boat and soaking in the Kashmiri atmosphere.
There's nothing quite like Srinagar in the evening: the air fills with prayers from the numerous mosques around the city and the different coloured lights of the houseboats give the lake an evocative feel....

I have only myself to blame. I was told to spend two days on the road from Srinagar to Leh, making a stop half way at Kargil.
Seven o'clock in the morning at the Srinagar taxi stand I found out that I could do this trip in a one very long day. I thought it was brilliant. I'd get to Leh late in the evening but I'd save one day....